Beauty Corner : The Truth about Vitamin C

Vitamin C is a diva in natural skincare product. They have amazing benefits for our health especially for our skin. Uneven skin tone, rough texture, fine lines, acne scars, general dullness, any common complexion concern and there's a good chance that vitamin C is a recommended treatment. But, how actually vitamin C works? Do all product that contain vitamin C have the same potential effect ?  Does vitamin C have any adverse effect if we use for long time ? Okay before we discuss about that, let's find out about what is vitamin C.

What is Vitamin C?

Officially known as ascorbic acid, vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin. Your body doesn’t produce it, so you must obtain it through your diet (from natural sources such as citrus fruits, green leafy vegetables, strawberries, papaya and broccoli). 

In nature, Vit. C is found in equal parts as LAA and D-ascorbic acid. However, only LAA is biologically active and thus useful in medical practice. 

How actually Vitamin C Works ?

• Vit C as Antioxidant

Vit C is very potent antioxidant. It protects the skin from oxidative stress by neutralized them. 

• Vit C as Photoprotector

Vit. C is equally effective against both UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm). How about if we only use sunscreen ? Sunscreen is also photoprotector, right ? Sunscreens when properly applied prevent UV-induced erythema and cell mutations that contribute to skin cancer. However, sunscreens block only 55% of the free radicals produced by UV exposure. To optimize UV protection, it is important to use sunscreens combined with a topical antioxidant.

Although Vit. C alone can provide photoprotection, it works best in conjunction with Vitamin E (Vit. E), which potentiates the action of Vit. C four-fold.

• Vitamin C and Synthesis Collagen

Vit. C is essential for collagen biosynthesis. Clinical studies have shown that the topical use of Vit. C increases collagen production in young as well as aged human skin. Because of that, Vitamin C is known as anti-aging agent

• Vitamin C as a Depigmenting Agent

The action of vitamin C as a depigemented agent is interrupting the key steps of melanogenesis. However, Vit. C is an unstable compound. It is therefore often combined with other depigmenting agents such as soy and liquorice for better depigmenting effect.

• Anti-Inflammatory Action of Vitamin C

Vit. C has a potential anti-inflammatory activity and can be used in conditions like acne vulgaris and rosacea. It can promote wound healing and prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

Which form of Vitamin C skincare product that best to use ?

Vit. C is available in the market as a variety of creams, serum and transdermal patches. Of these, only the serum contains active Vit. C in an almost colorless form.The other form of vitamin C that you can find in skincare product is Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP). It is lipid-soluble form. It is stable and has hydrating effect. 

What is the adverse effect of vitamin C?

Topical Vit. C is largely safe to use on a daily basis for long durations. It can safely be used in conjunction with other common topical anti-ageing agents such as sunscreens, tretinoin, other antioxidants and alfa hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid. Stinging, erythema and dryness are very rare. But if this is happened, you can use moisturizer as the treatment. Care must be taken while applying Vit. C around the eyes.

Reference :

Telang, P.S, 2013, Vitamin C in Dermatology, Indian Dermatol Online J. 4(2): 143–146

www.healthline.com/nutrition/vitamin-c-for-acne#vitamin-c-skincare